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I had some switched mode regulators ordered but they didn’t arrive in time for my flight, so it went up with the linear regulator. This is easy when you’re programming a bare-metal AVR or PIC – just use a delay routine or, as in my trackers, a timer interrupt.The usual technique with the NTX2 is to send the ‘1’ and ‘0’ values in RTTY by waggling a general purpose I/O pin up and down at the correct rate. However the Pi runs a non-real-time operating system, so I could not rely on accurate timing especially if the operating system is busy taking a photo from the webcam.The radio link is one-way so there’s no chance of remotely doing a “sudo reboot” let alone powering off then on again!Descent can be violent, as can the landing, so even things like SD card sockets can represent a potential failure mode.
In early May I received my first Raspberry Pi computer, and having flown several high altitude balloons before I thought about using one as a flight computer.
I was much more concerned with how hot it was going to get inside the payload, so I added some heatsinks to the Pi: I used special thermal adhesive to glue heatsinks to the USB/ETH chip and to the 3.3V regulator.
Both get warm but not hot normally, and I feared that at 1% atmosphere (so less convection) they’d possibly get too hot.
You can also see 2 wires carrying 5V directly to the Pi – soldered joints are more reliable than using a connector.
Another modification was to remove the S2 video connector to make space for components on my expansion board.
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